Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Sex in the Middle East* But Were Afraid To Ask

Image

Originally published on the Telegraph website

How do you start a revolution in the Arab bedroom while many in the Middle East are preoccupied with a bitter fight for their political future? For Sex and the Citadel author Shereen El Feki, the two are part of the same struggle.

Shereen El Feki, reluctant revolutionary in the disguise of a polite Egyptian-Canadian, is explaining the class distinctions of Cairo’s gay scene to the packed upstairs room of a London bar.

Petite with a pixie haircut, El Feki’s audience of mostly young women has its fair share of middle-aged gentlemen too, eager to hear her speak about what could be the most revealing take on Arab sexuality in 1,000 years in Sex and the Citadel: Intimate Life in a Changing Arab World, an eye-popping audit of the frustrations Arab men and women face in the pursuit of sexual relationships.

Sensuality in Islamic literature has a long, though uneven, history, and one that El Feki thinks the Middle East has a unique opportunity to rediscover in the aftermath of the uprisings that began in late in 2010, as she tells me the next day.

El Feki describes her upbringing in Waterloo, a town near Toronto, as “very civilised,” spent largely in “academic surroundings” with her Cairo-born neurosurgeon father and her mother, a schoolteacher from Wales. “There was a Muslim community there, but being Muslim in the West was not an issue when I was growing up,” she says.

Post 9/11, that changed. Hardening attitudes to Muslims in the West, and the growing ranks of Muslim Brothers back in her father’s homeland pushed the two poles of her identity further and further apart. Sex became a lens through which to observe these changes.

Few Muslim taboos survive her systematic approach in the book. Impotence brought on by the stress of revolution, domestic violence, the anxiety to preserve virginity among the unmarried, female genital mutilation—all are scrutinised with the same uncompromising gaze.

Sex and the Citadel presents the factual and anecdotal case for better access to contraception in marriage, for women divorcing to be granted the same rights and respectability as men, and for single women to be allowed to live and work freely without state or family censure.

There are comic moments too. Saudi Arabia is described as an unlikely lesbian haven, where the concept of a sexual relationship between two women is little understood by religious police patrolling shopping malls for evidence of vice.

El Feki trained as an immunologist before becoming healthcare correspondent at The Economist, presenting shows on Al Jazeera English and later becoming vice chair of the UN’s Global Commission on HIV and the Law. It is this scientific training that is key to understanding her wish for “people come to their own conclusions” about her work.

When the Arab Spring brought down dictators across the Arab region in 2011, El Feki was three years into an odyssey that took her across the Middle East and North Africa, the results of which became Sex and the Citadel.

“I was in Tahrir Square in the fall of 2011—during the uprising’s second wave, against army rule—and again earlier this year, during the protests which marked the second anniversary of the uprising,” she tells me.

“The atmosphere was different on the two occasions: while men made way for women’s marches and listened to us with respect two years ago, this year, there was a jagged edge to the atmosphere, and I was subjected to verbal sexual harassment.

“How to recapture that solidarity, given the huge fractures in Egyptian society, is our challenge in the years to come.”

El Feki speaks Arabic but is most at home in English, and appears just as comfortable chatting with Tunisian sex workers as UN diplomats, lending her a disarming confidence about the failings of East and West.

“I think there’s an impression in the West that Arabs are quite frankly just f***ed up and we’re wallowing in sexual oppression,” she says at one point.

Or when she admits, with affection: “In Egypt it is quite frankly a complete disaster what is happening right now in the country, politically, economically and in terms of security, but it is a necessary messiness for us.

“If we had made a tidy transition from, let’s say, Mubarak to Shafiq, who came from the old regime, and we didn’t have all this controversy over the Muslim Brotherhood, I wonder if we would really be able to cut our teeth and develop.”

Just as Arabs are often portrayed as unable to adapt to democracy, they are similarly described as repressed when it comes to sex.

This is in stark contrast to the vision of a sex-crazed populace as encountered by French novelist Gustave Flaubert, who wrote a letter home from his travels in Egypt in 1849.

“Here it is quite accepted. One admits one’s sodomy, and it is spoken of at the table of the hotel,” he advised a friend, with his adventures in brothels and streets up and down the length of the Nile eventually filling an entire volume of work, A Sensibility on Tour (Le voyage en Egpyte).

In fact, Sex and the Citadel has a decidedly Western approach to the Middle East’s sexual issues, which El Feki knows is at odds with the usual way of touching on any delicate topic for many Arabs.

“Very often it’s a bit like a runway, you have to get on the [landing] strip. The information’s not presented up front and there are all sorts of circuitous ways of expressing ideas,” she says, describing how the structure of newspaper articles, in this example, mirror how so many Arabs struggle to talk about these issues.

This leads, she argues, to the impression in the West that those living in the Middle East are consumed by lust, but aren’t quite sure what to do about it.

“We need to find creative ways of talking about these issues. We need to call things differently,” she adds. The Western “obsession” with transparency and clarity “doesn’t work” in the same way, she claims.

She gives the example of sexual education in schools, which many well-meaning charities will describe as such. “Don’t call it sex; it’s called family education,” she advises. “At the end of the day it doesn’t matter what it’s called; it matters what it is.”

A chapter on marriage, the “bedrock” of Arab society and the only legal way to have sex in the majority of the Middle East, is one of the saddest in the book. The double bind of needing to please a man so he won’t divorce you while simultaneously appearing as virtuous as possible puts many of the women El Feki interviews into distressing situations.

Women such as Wisam, who tries to press charges against an abusive husband but is told by Egyptian police it is a “man’s right to discipline his wife”, show just how ingrained patriarchal attitudes remain in the region. In Egypt, a third of men believe it is right to beat one’s wife if she leaves the house without informing her husband, and a quarter if she refuses sex.

One popular (female) TV sexologist is quoted as saying: “He is exposed to many temptations outside the home. Be available to please him and do not give him a reason to make a choice between you and hellfire.”

Another fear, of marrying “outside”, is particularly acute in Gulf states such as Qatar and the UAE, where up to 75 per cent of the population is made up of immigrants. It is fairly common for men in these countries to marry Western women, though rarely the other way around.

“There is a real worry – what are we going to do if the men stop marrying our women. And I don’t think these marriage funds are going to solve these problems,” she says, referring to the money given to poorer men by the state in these countries to help them afford a wedding.

“No amount of money you throw at a situation where you have more women than men in university, highly educated women, with men who still have traditional views in what they want in a wife, no amount of money is going to solve that,” she adds, referring to the UAE and Saudi Arabia, where more than half of university graduates are now female.

One other problem is the changing nature of labour in many Arab countries, where men (and sometimes women) will move to conservative states such as Dubai, Saudi Arabia or Qatar to earn more than they could at home. This has had the dual effect of exposing them to a more fundamentalist version of Islam while also introducing them to “Gulf attitudes” on the preservation of virginity (“sex in the wrong place,” as housewife Azza puts it in the book) and internet porn as a distraction from the monotony of work.

The effect on families of fathers absent for long stretches is acute. “When I was a child all the family lived in Egypt except my father and my mother, and my grandmother would bring everyone together and we would have Friday lunch,” El Feki says.

“Now when I go the family is in Dubai, or the States, or Qatar, and no one has time. Everyone is so busy working.

“As the family ties break down, because there’s no welfare state basically a lot of the services that were provided by the family are no longer available so what are you going to do?”

In the absence of any viable alternative, the family becomes essential to survival, but therein lies another problem.

“When will you have the courage to tell your father, resist your father, in the same way you resisted the father of the nation?” El Feki asks.

“That’s not going to happen until there are structures that allow you to do that, until you can get a job and be economically independent of your family.

“The change has to be that you have individual rights and recourse to the law.”

But El Feki claims she wants any challenge to the mini Mubaraks at the head of households and offices to take place within the strictures of Islam.

While it is not unthinkable this could happen within a liberal reading of Islam, no Arab country is anywhere near granting these rights to any but a privileged élite.

El Feki believes this is a temporary blip, the cathartic “necessary messiness” required for Arab nations to realise their true political (and sexual) selves.

“With the uprisings people are saying no, you can’t tell us what is right and wrong in Islam. That has become very pronounced, the pushback against the Islamic conservatives and their one-size-fits-all Islam,” she says.

El Feki is unafraid to criticise President Mohammad Morsi’s Muslim Brotherhood and the entire culture of TV sheikhs and haram/halal coin-flipping that informs every decision outwardly devout Muslims make.

It is, she says, “Incumbent on us as Muslims to think about our faith,” and to move away from the model whereby Muslims “Recite Qu’ran but they don’t have the intellectual freedom or the mental space to ask hard questions.

“It’s much easier for them to send in a message on the internet or call in a TV sheikh who will spout some sort of fatwa.”

El Feki is clearly religious, easily quoting sayings of the Prophet Mohammed, eschewing alcohol, and speaking passionately about the corruption, in her eyes, of Islam by conservative forces.

I ask whether her own experiences as a practising Muslim and Western academic might have had their own place in her book, later in the week when she is about to fly off to New York. She laughs, and says: “I see myself as a catalyst. The basis of the change is already there; I’m just the spark.”

The future of the NHS

This week I have been working with our medical correspondent Stephen Adams on an investigation into A&E, maternity, paediatric and other ward closures in the NHS.

We analysed every English trust (Scotland and Wales have separate NHS systems) and checked out services for acute care across the board.

The findings are quite shocking. More than twenty A&E wards are threatened with closure or have already closed, and only a slightly smaller number of maternity wards have either closed or may do so when proposals by trusts are completed.

In addition, paediatric heart surgery has been scaled back from ten centres to seven. Centres of excellence like the Royal Brompton in London will no longer be saving children’s lives as the NHS is streamlined and savings are made.

These are called ‘public consultations’, but did we, the British public, really know this was happening to our health service on such a scale?

There is a genuine debate over whether reorganisation of services into larger units with more doctors can benefit patient care – but travel times are a real factor.

A&E and maternity units are services that people can’t hang around for, in the cases of heart attack and stroke victims or mothers giving birth, for example. And with tens more miles to travel, the guarantee of better care at the end of the journey may not be of comfort while patients are in transit.

London is particularly affected by the shakeup, though Manchester has seen many of these changes already to a largely positive response.

Better care, further away, or closer but patchier provision? It would be ideal if the British public didn’t have to choose between the two.

Freshers; Let It Be; Jemima West; Eric the Eel – my latest

Credit: xkcd

My last four months at the Telegraph have been varied, to say the least.

I interviewed Eric The Eel, quite possibly the slowest (and nicest) Olympic swimmer of all time, over the phone from Equatorial Guinea.

I spent an afternoon with the men taking on “The biggest Beatles job on the planet”, the John, Paul, George and Ringo obsessives behind the Let It Be musical.

Jemima West, the Sorbonne grad who made her name playing a prostitute in Maison Close, and a star in the making to my reckoning, will be in the forthcoming film of the mega-selling teen book series by Cassandra Clare – Mortal Instruments: City of Bones.

We talked about Paris, how to tell your parents you’ve just shot an horrific rape scene, and the insanity of some of Maison Close – orgy covered in cake, anyone?

Finally a lot of you were very complimentary about my short survival guide for this year’s Freshers. I wish them luck – it can be a jungle out there.

You can keep up with all of my writing here.

Telegraph Olympic data and graphics blog launch

Image

Olympic firsts from 1908-2012

The Telegraph launches the Olympics data and graphics blog today, and I will be doing the bulk of the posts with help from our graphics team and some guest writers and designers.

It’s a great place for those of you who may not be stats obsessives or Olympics fanatics, but who are interested in the social and political aspects of the games as well as split times and wind speeds.

This week we have posts with work from Ciaran Hughes and Paul Bradshaw, and we are working with Visualoop in Brazil as an external partner.

I’ve also got a Pinterest account going so all our graphics can be found in one place.

Read on…

 

New York Times Magazine ‘London’ issue

My first appearance in the New York Times Magazine is here in their ‘London’ issue, on the topic of ‘Migratory Models’.

The accompanying photography is by Gareth McConnell.

Every day, beautiful young people from all over the world descend on London in the hope of becoming fashion models. But what inspired the photographer Gareth McConnell to document this phenomenon was not the promise of glamour but the daily life of working immigrants.

Read more

Remembering Anthony Shadid

Anthony Shadid, Middle East correspondent

This originally appeared in the Scotsman’s Scottish Perspective on Monday 20 February 2012

In the weeks before visiting Syria for the second time since the uprisings against dictator Bashar al-Assad began, New York Times Middle East correspondent Anthony Shadid e-mailed his editor. “It’s just nuts. I feel like no one there is telling the truth now,” he wrote. “We have to get the details.”

Mr Shadid, as ever, got the details, and was on his way out of the country last Thursday via the Turkish border when he suffered a fatal asthma attack, apparently brought on by his allergy to horses.

As an American citizen, Mr Shadid would been rushed to the nearest hospital at home, but instead his only aid came from photographer and colleague Tyler Hicks, who attempted to resuscitate him for 30 minutes and then carried his body over the border.

Shot in the shoulder in Ramallah, and held for days by Gaddafi’s goons in Libya, Mr Shadid was no stranger to conflict zones, but his death signifies something more than bravery.

What he epitomised is the exact opposite of what all young journalists are told is important. Mr Shadid was not distracted by Twitter (143 tweets in his lifetime) or shooting video, or his “personal brand”.

His qualities lay in his language skills, as a fluent speaker of Arabic, and his ability to listen. How else could he persuade a man forced to murder his own son in 2003 in Thuluya, Iraq, to talk at length about the experience?

In an age when web page views, retweets, and Facebook “Likes” have become the measure of a journalist’s worth, a quiet piece he wrote on Lebanon’s response to the Arab Spring last summer garnered little attention.

It wasn’t brash, or newsworthy, but simply explained why Lebanese protester Tony Daoud was demanding changes to restrictive laws regarding marriage, divorce, and inheritance. Mr Shadid wrote: “Daoud has been here every day since 18 March, but almost no one shouts or waves in support; horns are only honked in the direction of the valet parking across the street. ‘It’s not as simple as it looks on TV,’ he said as we sat in plastic chairs under a canvas umbrella.”

Where others would see a man in a chair with a sign, Shadid saw history: so many Lebanese are so tired of endless civil war that a fragile peace in a shaky democratic system is enough, for now.

That wouldn’t get you trending on Twitter, or rehashed for Mail Online, but for the people of that small country, constantly and unfairly dismissed as an unworkable, toxic mess, it must have brought solace.

That is not to say that new media and the power of the internet bring nothing to foreign reporting. For the last year, before reporters like Shadid grew tired of second-hand accounts of atrocities and entered the country illegally, hundreds of sickening images and videos have made their way on to YouTube and Twitter, documenting Assad’s crimes against his own people.

Some of this grim amateur footage has given an indication of atrocities, but until the international press pack snuck their way in, could we really say we understood what those snatched images of tanks, corpses and protests meant for Syria, and the Arab world as a whole?

New media can only ever work alongside, rather than replace, the core skills of bearing witness, listening and accurately reporting the truth.

Part of that is a language barrier – we need Syrians fluent in English or native English speakers reporting from Syria – but we also need emotional detachment and the ability to win the trust of those caught up in terrible situations – two qualities that Mr Shadid undoubtedly possessed.

One may recall a video circulating on Twitter last week of a child in Syria still alive with half his jaw blown off – this is the horror of war, no question, but it is not enough for us to watch and say “this is wrong”, retweet, and forget.

We need people like Anthony Shadid, especially in foreign reporting, more than ever. All the iPhones in the world won’t change that.

The long road ahead: Coming to terms with the death of a son

This feature originally appeared in the Scotsman on Friday 17 February 

TWO years ago, former project manager Ian McNicoll made his regular commute home from work by bike, passing along Cowgate and up the Grassmarket in Edinburgh city centre. He couldn’t put his finger on why, but something felt wrong. “I didn’t have an incident, but I got scared one night in traffic,” he said. “It’s very narrow, there are cars coming down with railings on either side, and you’re just boxed in. That night I said to myself, ‘I’m not doing it again’.” He stopped cycling.

Mr McNicoll’s son, Andrew, never had such thoughts. A committed yet safety-conscious enthusiast, Andrew rode to work daily as an insurance officer at construction firm Balfour Beatty from his home in Balerno, to the west of the city, and at weekends with other members of the Edinburgh Road Club. He was ready to cycle the 47 miles of the Pedal for Scotland charity race in September, and wanted to accompany his stepmother, Lynne, as she attempted the challenge for the first time.

On 5 January, Andrew was killed while cycling to work on the Lanark Road. Police cannot confirm the full details, but it is thought an articulated lorry, of the sort that bend in the middle, forced Andrew off the road and into a parked car. He died of his injuries at Edinburgh Royal Infirmary hours later.
Continue reading